Salem in October: Beyond the Witch Hats

Every October, roughly 1.4 million people descend on Salem, Massachusetts — a remarkable number for a city of just 45,000 residents spread across a little more than eight square miles.

Yes, there are witches. Plenty of them.

Salem’s month-long Haunted Happenings fills the city with ghost tours, costume parades and Halloween events. But beyond the spectacle, Salem is one of New England’s most atmospheric historic cities — and there are reasons to visit that have very little to do with pointy hats.

The trick is knowing where to go.

Stay somewhere with a little history

The Hawthorne Hotel has overlooked Salem Common since 1925 and remains one of the city’s classic addresses. For something smaller, Daniels House Inn occupies a 17th-century home and feels appropriately old Salem.

Then there’s The Merchant, an intimate hotel housed in a former sea merchant’s residence. George Washington once stayed here, which is considerably more interesting than another anonymous hotel suite.

For a waterfront option, Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites puts you close to the harbour and within walking distance of much of the historic centre.

Leave Essex Street occasionally

The busiest stretch of Salem is not necessarily the most interesting one.

A few blocks away from the main October crowds, the city becomes quieter and considerably more charming: historic houses, brick streets and maritime architecture that tell a much bigger story than Halloween alone.

For dinner, Turner’s Seafood occupies the historic Lyceum Hall, a building dating to the 19th century.

The Maison Routes take

Would we visit Salem on Halloween weekend? Probably not.

Go midweek, stay somewhere with history, and arrive by train or ferry rather than attempting the increasingly questionable exercise of parking downtown.

The witches are part of the fun.

They just don’t need to be the entire itinerary.